There is nowhere on Earth like this secluded Welsh lake, surrounded on all sides by mountains in one of the remotest parts of Wales. You can see why Llyn y Fan Fach is shrouded in myth and legend. It looks like something out of a dark fairy tale and, indeed, is the subject of one.
You'll find it in the middle of the Brecon Beacons a few miles south of Llandovery and not far from the village of Llanddeusant. And while its rugged beauty has become better-known in the age of social media, it retains that remote and unspoiled feeling. On a clear summer's day, it's one of the best places anywhere in the world for a walk and a lakeside picnic. But catch it on a misty day and it will feel otherworldly.
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Llyn y Fan Fach is the smaller of two lakes within this wild mountain massif, with the slightly larger Llyn y Fan Fawr about two miles to the east. To reach it, you need to hike uphill alongside a river, through remote terrain with no facilities. It's worth the walk though as you'll be rewarded with unspoilt panoramic views of the Brecon Beacons. You can stop by the lake or climb further and walk around the ridges above — but be warned, this is remote territory and can be a tricky descent if you haven't properly planned your route. The folklore legends that surround the lake only add to its magical quality and it certainly looks like something out of a fairytale.
The legend of Llyn y Fan Fach
The tale goes that it was at Llyn y Fan Fach where a young farmer named Gwyn won and then tragically lost the love of his life. He fell in love with a beautiful woman who emerged from the water and agreed to marry him but warned him she would leave him forever if he struck her three times.
They lived happily for many years and had three sons but when Gwyn struck her playfully for the third time she disappeared into the lake and he never saw her again. She would sometimes re-appear to her sons and teach them the powers of healing with herbs and plants. They became skilful physicians, known as the Physicians of Myddfai.
Some of their ancient remedies have survived and are in the Red Book of Hergest, one of Wales' most important medieval manuscripts.
Hiking Llyn y Fan Fach
Llyn y Fan Fach is one of the most beautiful spots in the Brecon Beacons and is a great location for a day hike in the national park. You can walk to Llyn y Fan Fach on a four-mile route starting in the car park of the same name just past Llanddeusant. Start at the car park (SA19 9UN) and make sure to take a map with you or use the OS App on your phone to follow the route. The walk will take you along the lower Beacons way towards the source of the river running from Llyn y Fan Fach before reaching the lake and following the path up to the Bannau Sir Gaer ridgeline.
To extend the hike, carry on along the ridge and cross the Black Mountain to Fan Hir. For a shorter trek, start the descent down to the farmland, turn right and find yourself back at the car park. As it's less well known than the popular peaks of Pen y Fan, Corn Du and Cribyn, it should be quieter here, though it is popping up on social media more and more.
What do you need to hike Llyn y Fan Fach?
What you wear will make a huge difference when hiking in Wales, especially when it's cold and wet. Sturdy hiking boots, warm clothes and socks and a decent outdoor jacket are a must for hiking in Wales. Even in warm weather, you should always be prepared for conditions to change. A high-quality and preferably waterproof daypack to keep your kit in is also recommended, as you want to keep your stuff dry when walking in wet conditions. In rainy and cold Welsh weather, you’ll need to take extra clothing with you such as thermal layers, a warm fleece jacket, gloves and a hat, preferable with Thinsulate lining.
What wildlife can you see at Llyn y Fan Fach?
Birdwatchers and wildlife photographers will be pleased to hear that you can see many species of birds in and around Llyn y Fan Fach. Birdlife in the area includes red kite, common buzzard, kestrel, carrion crow, common raven and skylark to name a few. There is a red kite feeding station in nearby Llanddeusant. There's also a range of elusive mammals to be found here including field voles, foxes and badgers, though you have to be very lucky to spot them.
Can you swim at Llyn y Fan Fach?
Llyn y Fan Fach is a very deep (18m) and very cold so an icy dip awaits the brave souls who take the plunge into these freezing waters and shouldn't be attempted by those inexperienced in outdoor swimming. Recently, swimming here has been discouraged according to Welsh adventurer and owner of This Girl Walks website Carys Rees. She said: "It's a great spot for a swim but since I was last swimming there, they have put up a no swimming sign."
Scrolling through Instagram reveals that many wild swimmers are still taking a dip there though, despite the warnings. Nearby glacial lake Llyn y Fan Fawr is more suited to swimming and attracts many wild swimmers from Wales and beyond. If you do swim in Llyn y Fan Fawr, it's important to also have the right gear for an outdoor swim in Wales. Essential outdoor swimming kit for your waterfall swim includes warm layers and a preferably weatherproof changing robe such as Dryrobe, to get changed and keep warm at the same time. Also, pack a flask full of hot coffee or tea to warm up after a wild swim, you'll need it after a glacial dip!
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