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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tony Naylor

The River Cafe legacy: the enduring influence of one of Britain’s best loved restaurants

Anna Tobias, who worked at the River Cafe from 2010 to 2013, at her London restaurant, Cafe Deco.
Anna Tobias, who worked at the River Cafe from 2010 to 2013, at her London restaurant, Cafe Deco. Photograph: Phil Fisk/The Observer

“When we hire people,” says Joe Trivelli, executive head chef at the River Cafe, “I’m thinking, ‘Will they be good, and stay for a long time?’ I’m not thinking about what they’re going to do afterwards.” The restaurant, which celebrates its 35th anniversary next month, is not, stresses its other executive head chef, Sian Wyn Owen, a “fancy cooking school”.

The River Cafe’s kitchen needs team players willing to work hard while absorbing knowledge, not chefs in a rush to tick a box on their CV and move on to their own head chef roles. “Often that desire to be important overpowers the desire to learn,” says Wyn Owen.

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