Purées get a bad rap. To some, they conjure ideas of haute cuisine fuss — dainty smears, baby food textures, or unnecessary embellishment. But consider this: do you find mashed potatoes pretentious? Smoothies? Onion dip, served with Ruffles and an armada of crudités? Of course not.
At their best, purées deliver deep flavor, elegant texture, and incredible versatility. One of the most memorable examples I’ve ever encountered was a chicken liver mousse at Tuome in New York City. Piped from an iSi canister to give it body and loft, it arrived with milk bread and a drizzle of New York maple syrup. Light yet simultaneously rich and savory, it hd the essence of a savory frozen yogurt — indulgent without being heavy. I’ve been chasing that dish ever since.
