The great divide: Old Trafford will be last Ashes Test in north until 2031

‘The atmosphere is always better up north’: Steve Smith attempts to get rid of a beach ball during the fourth Ashes Test at Old Trafford in 2019. Photograph: Alex Davidson/Getty Images

From the tiered steps of Stanley Park, the top of the Blackpool tower is visible, keeping its long watch over the Fylde coast. There is a pretty good crowd in for the last day of Lancashire’s County Championship match against Essex, queueing for coffees from the Froth Me Silly van and for the eight portable toilets lined up like tipsy soldiers at the South End.

After Dan Lawrence’s brutal pick-me innings on the Wednesday afternoon, 135 in 125 balls, with three lost three balls and nine sixes, Thursday’s play is more sedate, but just as gripping, as Lancashire attempt to chase a record-breaking 430. They get in touching distance, before having to shut up shop and losing their final wicket with 10 balls till stumps.