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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tony Naylor

St John: 30 ways the ‘nose to tail’ restaurant changed the way we eat

St John founders Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver photographed for Observer Food Monthly in 2019.
St John founders Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver photographed for Observer Food Monthly in 2019. Photograph: Phil Fisk/The Observer

Offal advocacy

“There were 260 specialist tripe shops in Manchester in 1906: in 1994 there are none.” So opens the book Tripe: A Most Excellent Dish, encapsulating the decline of offal in Britain.

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