The repetition of the phrases “modern British” and “seasonally led” are so droningly frequent that the veneer of these once noble ideas is all but lost. Too often it’s an excuse for an ideas-free kitchen to serve an English burrata with some Isle of Wight tomatoes and charge diners £16 for the pleasure. But what if we were to take a properly interesting, exciting, talked-about and Michelin-starred restaurant and look at what they do when the seasons change? That’s why I’m here, at Evelyn’s Table, to find out.
Making my way through Soho’s Rupert Court, past the walk-in reflexology parlour, a side door to the Blue Posts pub is revealed, and the beaming head chef James Goodyear is ready to receive his newest stagiaire.
