On a single crumb of cheese rind there are more than 10 billion microbes: that’s more microbial cells than there are people on Earth. Cheese rind is an intensified expression of the cheese, with a powerful flavour and highly concentrated community of good bacteria, yeast and mould. But it is misunderstood and underrated, and often removed and discarded. Though it can be intense, it’s almost always edible, unless it’s grown new mould or contains synthetic plastic, wax or cloth, which should be removed.
Like an apple or slice of bread, the skin, crust or rind add texture, flavour and nutrients to the eating experience. Sometimes, even I can’t stomach a really strong rind though, and another approach is necessary – like my blue cheese rind vinaigrette, where that pungent rind comes into its own, flavouring the dressing beautifully without overpowering it.
It’s recipes like this one that I feel great satisfaction in, turning waste into taste, conceiving a highly valuable product from something that is usually thrown out.
Blue cheese rind vinaigrette
Blue cheese rind is a flavour bomb that can be a little intense by itself, but when mixed into this super simple French-style vinaigrette comes into its own.
This creamy, funky dressing is great on a number of dishes, served as I have here with colourful radicchio, chicory and toasted seeds, or with nuts, sliced pear and apple, and a more plain lettuce like iceberg or romaine, which act as a carrier for the wonderful flavour. Or, it can be drizzled over steak, roast chicken or served as a dip for chicken wings for a more American approach.
Serves 4
80g blue cheese rind (roquefort, stilton or Dorset Blue Vinny), roughly chopped
2 tbsp creme fraiche, or yoghurt, sour cheese or thick cream
1 tbsp red or white wine vinegar, or lemon juice
1 tsp dijon mustard
3–4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp runny honey
Black pepper
In a mixing bowl, mash the blue cheese rind. Whisk in the creme fraiche (yoghurt or sour cream), the vinegar (or lemon juice), mustard, olive oil and honey. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper; it’s unlikely to need salt, but add some if necessary.
Store in the fridge for up to a week.
