The Canary Islands are so close that, on a clear night, surfing instructor Salim Maatoug can see the lights across the water. Fourteen million tourists a year flock to the Spanish archipelago, while in the Moroccan fishing port where Maatoug lives, sand from the Sahara drifts in the streets.
“In the Canaries you can hardly surf because it’s so crowded,” he says. “Here in Tarfaya we have 300km [200 miles] of waves.”