Sam & Jak, 2 Cricklade Street, Cirencester GL7 1JH (01285 704 478). Starters £8-£15, mains £16-£37.50, desserts £5-£8, wines from £27
On a warm, late-summer afternoon, Cirencester feels like a personable place to be. There’s a whole shopping parade here, along Black Jack Street, studded with businesses with which you can be on first-name terms: a coffee shop called Keith’s, a bookshop called Octavia’s, a fine and sturdy butchers, thick-glossed with heritage, called Jesse Smith. And there, on the other side of Market Place, in the shadow of St John Baptist church, is Sam & Jak.
