Marrakech has long attracted the creative set. Among those inspired by the rich colours of the city and ancient crafts of the Moroccan and Berber communities were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Balmain and Serge Lutens. Walking around, it’s easy to see how it ignites creativity. From the snaking labyrinths of the terracotta-tinged clay medina to the ornate palaces in marble and zellige tiles, everything is hand cut and plastered.
Former run-down buildings have been made into new riads by age-old techniques. It was this respect for the past and dedication to craftmanship that first drew Belgian artist Laurence Leenaert to Marrakech in 2015. After finding success with her striking ceramics and textile label and studio, LRNCE, the artist together with her husband Ayoub Boualam, decided to build the five-bedroom riad, Rosemary.
Located in one of the oldest districts in the medina — Riad Zitoun Jdid — the pair initially wanted to turn the former home into a store, but decided to take the concept further and build an immersive experience for guests. “To welcome people into our world,” explains Leenaert. Two years later and its mission accomplished.
As soon as I enter Rosemary, I’m catapulted into what feels like the LRNCE universe. Giant murals from colourful zellige tiles are imprinted on walls. There is wavy terracotta flooring, hand-painted tiles and sandstone squiggly carvings. On every shelf and wall are handmade vases, pots and knick-knacks, everything has the handprints of Leenaert, down to the toilet roll holder into which she has etched a sun.
The dining room and living room “salon” will play host to masterclasses and talks for friends and guests of the riad. “We really wanted this to feel like our home and make it a hub for people to come and exchange ideas”, says Leenaert. Workshops include hand painting ceramics with Laurence, learning how to chisel traditional zellije and carve plaster. It’s not all work, with a traditional hammam on-site for pampering. Upstairs on the coral-coloured rooftop, breakfast is a feast of healthy granola breakfast bowls, avocado smoothies and shakshuka, and wouldn’t look out of place in LA or Sydney; an apt analogy for the global influences being weaved into the Red City.
The riad has been assembled with the work of 30 artisans from all over Morocco, including a group of women specialising in stained glass in Meknes, potters in Safi, hand-chiselled zellige from Fes, marble vendors in Rabat and teams of local carpenters, metalworkers and plasterers. “I don’t think you can find the same level of craftsman anywhere else in the world, with the same intricate skills”, says Leenaert.
But there are no clichéd design tropes, instead everything feels fresh and playful, from the giant octopus mosaic in the hammam to the wonky plinths and chairs in the foyer — this riad fuses the old-world crafts with a contemporary spin and is more than just place to rest your head but a showcase of Marrakech’s new-gen creative scene.
Rooms from €220, rosemarymarrakech.com
5 things to do, by Laurence Leenaert
Galerie 127
A gallery in Gueliz. Owner Nathalie Locatelli has a great selection of artists. The works are poetic and mostly Moroccan.
galerie127.com; 127, Av. Mohamed V, Gueliz, Marrakech 40000
Thirty5ive
Owner Simo serves the best coffee in town. Each month he has an exhibition by a different Moroccan artist. A great place to meet new people.
thirty5ive.com; 3 Rue el Imam Malik, Marrakech 40000
La Famille
A vegetarian restaurant hidden in the middle of the chaotic Medina and run by a team of wonderful women. The menu changes daily.
lafamillemarrakech.com; 42 Riad Zitoun Jdid, Marrakech Medina
Tribaliste
A brand reinventing Moroccan craftsmanship with boldness and passion. In their newly renovated showroom, you’ll discover a wide range of customisable handmade Moroccan rugs.
tribaliste.com; 497 QI, Marrakech 40110
Chez Lamine
One of the oldest and most authentic Moroccan restaurants. It is famous for its mechoui (slow cooked lamb in a pit) and its tangia (slow cooked beef in a clay pot).
facebook.com/restaurantchezlamine; Rue Ibn Aicha a Gueliz, N19 Residence Yasmine, Marrakech 40000
