Self-saucing puddings are magic, and we should all have a recipe up our sleeve. The transformation from a soggy batter (in which it is hard to see the potential) to a fluffy, moreish pudding is something to behold. I have made many iterations of them in my time – some with dates and ricotta, others with apple and toffee,chocolate fudge and beyond. This one, with elderflower and lemon, is for citrus fans. It is wonderfully sharp, and can be put together at a moment’s notice.