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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Nicky Gardner

Rail route of the month: the gentle beauty of a ride from Hamburg into Denmark

Gabled houses on the main market square in Friedrichstadt, northern Germany. The town was founded by Dutch settlers in the 17th century.
Gabled houses on the main market square in Friedrichstadt, northern Germany. The town was founded by Dutch settlers in the 17th century. Photograph: Hidden Europe

What makes a fine rail journey? We all have our own ideas on this, but I find it’s best not to dash and to retain an element of spontaneity, taking the chance to stop off here and there along the way. So, last month I ended up taking three days for a train journey of only 200 miles.

It’s possible to travel from Hamburg to Esbjerg by train in four to five hours with a single change of train at Niebüll, a small town in northern Germany just short of the Danish border. Yet, with fine early summer weather, this was a chance to dawdle. Except for short electrified stretches at either end – for the first 40 miles out of Hamburg and then again on the final few miles into Esbjerg – the route relies on diesel trains and for much of the way has all the character of a lightly used secondary railway. The appeal of the journey is in the delicate beauty of the flatlands and the fine small towns along the way.

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