Poland’s ascent from communist state to top 20 economy reverses the brain drain

A view of Warsaw from the observation deck of Varso Tower, the tallest building in the EU at 310 metres. In the background, the Palace of Culture and Science, built in the 1950s as a symbol of the postwar socialist era. Photograph: Anna Liminowicz/The Guardian

Above the rain-soaked streets of Warsaw, the observation deck of the Varso tower overlooks Joseph Stalin’s gift to Poland that has divided opinion for decades.

For some, the Soviet-era Palace of Culture and Science is a drunk confectioner’s nightmare; standing as a relic of oppression that should have been demolished. For others, it is an icon on the skyline and a monumental warning from history.