London Fashion Week has a way of holding up a mirror to the state of the world. More so than the adjacent counterparts in New York, Milan and Paris, which are defined by established designers, here it has always been about emerging talents who are, by their nature, more susceptible to societal and political instabilities. Whether it’s Brexit, supply chain disruptions, or the cost of living crisis, these issues force a response from young designers because they cause such a direct impact, they cannot be ignored.
This season, we’ve seen this tension play out more potently than ever before, with a string of notable absences on the schedule. Gone are the usual big hitters – and celebrity favourites – like JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Nensi Dojaka, Chopova Lowena, and 16Arlington, the latter of whom this season has forgone a traditional show format by way of an intimate dinner where guests will wear the new collection. Instead, the lineup feels more pared-down than ever, as designers reassess how to present their new collections in response to financial challenges that have prompted a major rethink.
