
Would it be overly cynical to suppose the restaurateur behind Dorian is fostering hype as a means to stay relevant? Securing a table at the upscale Notting Hill bistro is almost impossible unless your surname is Beckham, so it probably would. Even if there is business savvy at play — the finest knives still require sharpening — I think Chris D’Sylva appears resolute, candid and truthful in his disregard for “problematic” diners.
It was in the Daily Mail that he first explained he has a sophisticated ranking system for guests, the worst of whom are blacklisted entirely, never to return. “Everything gets marked,” he told the newspaper. “Good behaviours and not favourable behaviours get noted on the system on the booking, especially after the sitting.