Calf’s brain, veal’s head, ox tongue. It may sound like a menu from France or the 1970s, but these are the key ingredients behind star dishes at hit London restaurant openings over the past year, including Bouchon Racine, a Lyon-inspired venue in Farringdon, and Speedboat Bar, a Soho spot paying homage to Bangkok’s Chinatown.
The fifth quarter – the term Roman butchers used for offal – is making a comeback, as diners become more adventurous, health conscious, environmentally concerned and budget-aware.
