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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Lifestyle
David Smith in Washington

‘No pickles? No deli’: archetypal American ‘secular Jewish space’ gains due regard

America United States Meg Ryan Holocaust Los Angeles New York Washington D.C.
Katz’s Delicatessen storefront in Manhattan.
Katz’s Delicatessen is arguably the most famous deli in the US, as much for its pastrami on rye as for Meg Ryan’s fake orgasm. Photograph: PSL Images/Alamy

Cate Thurston remembers the moment her team settled on what to call an exhibition about Jewish delis in America. “We kind of just said it as a joke,” the co-curator says. “It was a former colleague who said, ‘You could call it this,’ and we all had a laugh. And then we thought, wait, no, we could call it that!”

The title they chose: I’ll Have What She’s Having.

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