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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Sophia Seymour

‘Neighbourhood renaissance’: once noble La Sanità in Naples is open for business again

Low angle shot of Palazzo dello Spagnolo in Rione Sanita, Naples
The elaborate staircase of the rococo Palazzo dello Spagnolo, built in 1738. Photograph: Wirestock, Inc./Alamy

Why go now

My favourite way to enter Rione Sanità is by elevator: descending from a bridge into cobblestoned streets buzzing with mopeds and flanked by opulent but decaying 18th-century palazzi. Through the grand doorways of these once noble palaces are courtyards where bakers, butchers, cobblers and the odd contraband cigarette vendor do business.

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