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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Stephen Burgen in Barcelona

‘My grandmother never used yuzu’: global gastronomy is out as Catalan chefs celebrate tradition

Ferran Adrià El Bulli Disfrutar Michelin
A male chef prepares food in a restaurant kitchen
‘We are taking a broad but not a simplified view of Catalan cuisine,’ Joan Roca said. Photograph: Album/Alamy

They revolutionised cooking worldwide with radical techniques and a highly technical cuisine of playful trompe l’oeil – but now many disciples of Catalonia’s iconoclastic chef Ferran Adrià believe it’s time to get back to their roots.

Catalonia has been named World Region of Gastronomy 2025 by the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism and later this month 60 Michelin-starred chefs will launch a campaign to position Catalonia as a unique and exceptional gastronomic destination.

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