Star power: Ikoyi
(Picture: Daniel Hambury)Two London restaurants were today awarded a second Michelin star and a further seven were awarded a single star in a boost to the capital’s claim as a world class gastronomic destination.
The two promotions to the second rung in the Michelin star system were The Clove Club in Shoreditch and Ikoyi in St James’s. That brings the total number of two star restaurants in London to 10, out of 22 across the UK and Ireland.
Michelin, whose star awards are still seen as the highest accolade in the culinary world, described chef Isaac McHale’s flagship The Clove Club as serving “creative, exceptionally balanced cuisine.”
Ikoyi – which earned its first star in 2019 – was hailed for its “meticulous sourcing and a focus on the organic and the biodynamic comes together with Jeremy Chan’s clever approach to flavours and passion for West African spices, to create some truly original dishes”.
The restaurants gaining a single star included two new venues: Evelyn’s Table, a 12-seater restaurant in the cellar of a Georgian pub in Soho, and Kol in Marylebone, the first Mexican restaurant in the UK to win a Michelin star. The guide described as offering “ anappealing menu of contemporary Mexican dishes”.
Five longer standing London restaurants are also promoted: Frog by Adam Handling in Covent Garden, described as “fun, well-run, and offers carefully crafted cooking served by a friendly team” ; Jamavar in Mayfair, which serves “skilfully prepared, authentic Indian food”; Southwark’s Sollip, “where French techniques combine with the owners’ Korean heritage”; Trivet, also in Southwark, “where modern dishes exhibit real clarity and confidence”; and Wild Honey St James, “where Anthony Demetre’s experience shines through in accomplished cooking”.
Only one restaurant lost its star, Céleste, the restaurant at the Lanesborough Hotel.
Special awards went to chef Philip Howard at Chelsea’s Elystan Street for his work in mentoring rising chefs, sommelier Isa Bal at Trivet, and young chefs, brothers Luke, Nathaniel and Theo Selby at Evelyn’s Table.
Only one restaurant in the UK, Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria was promoted to three stars, joining Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, Core by Clare Smyth, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library), all in London, and the Fat Duck and Waterside Inn, both in Bray.
