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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
David Ellis and Josh Barrie

Can two Standard writers cook Le Gavroche’s legendary Soufflé Suissesse?

Le Gavroche will run its final service on January 13, chef-patron Michel Roux having announced the restaurant's closure late last year. In January 2024, Roux said he had served his one millionth Soufflé Suissesse, an iconic dish on the menu since the beginning, in 1967. Here, Going Out editor David Ellis and writer Josh Barrie try to make one in the famous Mayfair kitchen. The results were mixed.

Few chefs are truly synonymous with food. Gordon Ramsay? Sure — but more with TV, more with swearing. Heston? To many, he’s just the mad one with the glasses. But Michel Roux has always been known as one of the great modern chefs. And while few restaurants are truly famous, his — Mayfair’s two-starred Le Gavroche — really is.

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