McCarthy’s is a new Irish bar and deli in Tooting, a part of London I used to visit often. Back then I’d drive down from Clapham to get £1 samosas and a “roly poly”, or seekh kebab wrapped in a naan and baked in the tandoor. Truly remedial. Tooting feels a world away now — a schlep on the Northern line, on our hellish Tube system that hardly works. But that part of town is always a worthwhile venture, first for South Asian food but now also for McCarthy’s.
The bar is the latest development in London’s new-found obsession with Irish culture. The Irish diaspora has been running the capital’s hospitality scene for decades but the unruly fetishism for Guinness, Tayto crisps and chicken fillet rolls is a more recent thing. In Dublin last weekend I was told by Bord Bia — the Irish Food Board — that the UK now accounts for 17 per cent of all of Ireland’s food and drink exports. Curiously, it’s caused some trademark infringement cases lately, with London pubs switching to Irish Tayto crisps rather than the ones produced in Northern Ireland. God knows if this is nonsense but I hope it isn’t. I also hope the Northern Irish company employs the services of Liam Neeson to check proceedings.
McCarthy’s sells Tayto and various other procurements: Clonakilty black pudding, Barry’s tea (better than Yorkshire I’m afraid), mighty fine soda bread, a quality pint of Guinness and, sometimes, spice bags, the latest piece of Irish culture London is getting horny about.
The place softly appears to be a pub, facade and lettering, but isn’t exactly. Find it in the warren of the market, a snaking world of pop-up shops and wine bars, and get your fill of Irish produce. To that end, it’s a little Shoap-like (Scottish) and slightly Bara (Welsh). But there’s a session ale, Heineken and Coors on draught alongside the stout, and Tooting Broadway is ever a hive of activity, the intangible throng of south London.
When you next have a hankering, head to Tooting’s Broadway Market. Keep the Guinness running through the lines. Have a spice bag. Might even be good with a roly poly.
Broadway Market, SW17 0RJ, @mccarthysirishbartooting
Bar snacks
The Old Queen’s Head
44 Essex Road, N1 8LN, theoldqueenshead.com
Another day, another pizzeria in a pub. Next up is Hot Saint at the Old Queen’s Head. The concept is the work of Tom Budakan, ex-Dough Hands, so chances are it will be good. Budakan is using 48-hour fermented dough with high-protein Canadian flour, which will apparently give a nutty flavour and strong chew. More interesting is that he’s doing a take on ham and pineapple, or “Hawaiian”, with guanciale, smoked ham hock, pineapple and chilli.
Signature Brew
Blackhorse Lane, E17 5QJ, signaturebrew.co.uk
Know anything about Armenian food? Me neither. A pop-up venture called Sireli has opened at Signature Brew brewery in Walthamstow, bringing “A Taste of Armenia” sharing platters to have with Signature’s Studio lager and Roadie IPA. Expect lavash flatbreads, dolmas, pickles, muhammara (a roasted red pepper dip with walnuts) and lamb kebabs. Sounds excellent. Oh, also, a cheeseburger, obviously, made with sumac, shallots, confit mayo and zhug.
