L’Enclume in Cumbria has become the first restaurant in the north of England to win three Michelin stars, nine years after being awarded its second and 20 years after it opened.
In the latest Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland, L’Enclume became the eighth three-star restaurant in the UK – and the first outside London or Berkshire – joining seven others which retained their position. After winning its second star in 2013, Michelin promoted the 20-year-old establishment, citing its own farm and “superbly crafted” dishes.
Simon Rogan opened the restaurant in Cartmel in 2002 and focuses on hyper-local, seasonal produce, with much of the restaurant’s ingredients, including fruits, vegetables and herbs sourced from his 12-acre Our Farm a few miles away.
When the news was announced on Wednesday morning, Rogan told the Daily Telegraph: “Words cannot express the joy that I’m feeling. It’s fantastic timing that we’ve received this news 20 years since I opened the doors of L’Enclume. Achieving a third star has always been front of mind and something we’ve been striving for every day.”
Paul Burgalières, L’Enclume head chef since 2017 and previously at Copenhagen’s three-starred Geranium, wrote on Instagram: “What a team! It feels amazing to be on this journey together. The team is a constant inspiration to me, and I would like to thank everyone – from the growers at Our Farm, the fantastic head office, maintenance, marketing and our great suppliers and producers – we wouldn’t have made it without you all.”
The guide said: “It would be hard to find a restaurant more immersed in the region in which its located than L’Enclume and the Lake District. In that time, it has never stood still, establishing its own farm, showcasing the region’s finest ingredients and after a strong sustainable ethos.
“An enormous amount of time and creativity goes into every superbly crafted, stimulating dish, which makes eating at this highly accomplished restaurant a truly memorable experience.”
Thom Hetherington, CEO of the Northern Restaurant and Bar Show, told the Manchester Evening News: “It’s hard to emphasise quite what an achievement L’Enclume’s three stars are. For me Simon and his team have been operating at the highest level for more than four years now, and I couldn’t be more thrilled that it’s finally been recognised in this way.”
The five new two-star restaurants are: Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Dublin, The Clove Club from chef Isaac McHale, Shoreditch, London, Ikoyi from Chef Jeremy Chan in St James’s, London, Chef Damien Grey’s Liath, Blackrock, Dublin, and Chef Gareth Ward’s Ynyshir, Machynlleth, Powys.
The stars are good news for restaurants in London, which were badly affected by repeated lockdowns and then the surge in Omicron during the traditionally busy pre-Christmas season.
After shifting to a virtual ceremony in 2021 due to the Covid pandemic, this year Michelin announced the awarding of new stars on Twitter. Twenty-five restaurants were awarded new star ratings, including 19 new one-star restaurants, five new two-star restaurants and one three-star – L’Enclume.
Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, said: “Naturally we were disappointed to be unable to host this event in person. However, we wanted to celebrate the achievements of the country’s top chefs, who have fought hard not only to survive, but to excel in these challenging times.
“To award so many new stars this year, including one new three star, is testament to the determination and resilience of those working in the hospitality industry – not just the chefs, but those involved at every level.”
• This article was amended on 18 February 2022. An earlier headline referred to L’Enclume as a “Lake District restaurant”; it is actually situated just outside the national park’s boundary.
