In the late 1930s, Rukmini Devi Arundale, dancer, Theosophist and founder of Chennai-based Kalakshetra Foundation, introduced the kili (parrot) motif on the Kalakshetra sari. Today, this design has found its way into the Kerala kasavu, courtesy Kochi-based designer Shruthi Prajosh, as part of her Onam Edit.
A textile enthusiast, Shruthi has worked with the handloom weavers of Kuthampilly in Thrissur for 13 years and launched the Kaithiri project to bring round-the-year work to the weavers. “This is a dream come true,” she says. “I have been speaking to the weavers about this design for the last six months.” She says the younger weavers (around 30% of the Kuthampilly weaving community) are eager to experiment with new designs.
Shruthi has imported motifs from different traditions, cultures and mythology of India on to the Kerala kasavu, which is usually worn only during the festivals in the state. Four years ago, she designed a sari with the Tree of Life motif. Other innovations include kasavu saris in pastel shades (to be worn on different occasions), adding the orange selvedge to the border and adding the phoda khumba motif (the triangular-shaped roof) from temple architecture.
