I made this for my partner’s mum Hilda not long after we met, and apparently it won her heart. This dish is actually a popular, sweet street food snack, but here I’m serving it with sticky caramel blood oranges – the pick of the winter crop. As far as I can tell, leche frita ( or ‘fried milk’) was first made and sold by nuns in northern Spain to raise money for their convents and was traditionally eaten at Easter; nowadays, though, it’s popular all year round, probably because it’s just so moreish.