There will soon be carnival celebrations in the Veneto from where delicious radicchio, the beautiful bitter winter leaf, hails. You will find here a salad that celebrates it, sliding it up next to pear with a sharp dressing to enhance its flavour. Some of these recipes require patience and effort, but not much fussy technique – roasting the sweet squash separately for a soup, taking the time to bake a game pie that can be kept for days, or filling the freezer with iced goodness, a luxurious treat ready for when you need it.