Railway arch paradise: Parrillan’s terrace
(Picture: Adrian Lourie)I genuinely thought it was a wind up at first. Late on at Parrillan Borough Yards, stuffed and yet still weighing up what I made of it all, I asked if we could have the remnants of our veal shank wrapped up to go. “Yes,” said our server, hesitantly. “But you’ll have to sign something first. Just to say that we’re no longer liable when food leaves the premises.”
Friends, it was absolutely not a wind up. And so it came to pass that my trip to this vaunted opening — a blockbusting, white-hot and undeniably alluring outpost of Barrafina’s tabletop grilling spin-off — ended with the boundless glamour of, erm, health-and-safety paperwork.
