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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Felicity Cloake

It’s not all about roasting on an open fire – there’s so much more you can do with chestnuts

Castagnotti – chestnut cookies.
Falling for … Giuseppe Dell’Anno’s castagnotti chestnut cookies. Photograph: Matt Russell/Quadrille

If I’d ever spared a thought for how chestnuts – the sweet, edible kind, not the combative horsey sort – were harvested, I would probably have conjured rosy-cheeked peasants bent low in ancient forests and filling rough-hewn hessian sacks by hand. Back-breaking labour, sure, but so picturesque!

I was delighted, therefore, while on a writing retreat in Umbria last month, to get the opportunity to watch an elderly couple manoeuvre a giant vacuum around their haphazard orchard, followed by their furious sheepdog. The fallen crop was sucked into a giant fan that spat their bristly jackets back out on to the ground, and the nuts then went to be sorted by other family members on a conveyor belt in the barn – the good ones to be sold in the shell, the less perfect specimens swiftly dropped into a bucket for processing.

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