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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tom Hunt

‘It caramelised beautifully’: the best (and worst) supermarket chickens, tasted and rated

Four roast chickens sitting on a blue background all facing roughly south-west.  Not 'facing' exactly – their heads have been removed.
Winner, winner: read on for the birds to add to your dinner. Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.

Today’s test confirmed my conviction that knowing where your food comes from is among the most effective actions consumers can take. This means buying from farmers’ markets, butchers or directly from farms (online or in person). Some supermarkets also now work with independent family farms to provide better levels of transparency (although, do beware of fake farms, because some supermarkets have been known to make up fictional brands).

After roasting today’s chickens, it was abundantly clear to me that birds from independent family farms are leagues above supermarket own-brand chickens, even organic ones. It’s generally accepted that properly slow-grown, free-range and organic chickens develop firmer, more flavourful meat from the exercise they get by scratching around outdoors. Feed matters, too: pasture, herb and corn-fed birds have much more complex flavours and often sweeter, more buttery flesh.

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