‘Red light therapy, where LED lights are shone on your skin, has been around for a while,” says Afshin Mosahebi, a professor in plastic surgery at University College London. But what was once an expensive treatment you’d go to a professional to receive is now becoming widely available in the form of light-up masks you can wear at home.
“Reasonable reports show that the treatment is good for wound-healing,” says Mosahebi. This is why it is recommended for inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, dermatitis and psoriasis, as it increases circulation, decreases inflammation, and improves cell regeneration.
When it comes to preventing wrinkles though, there’s less proof. “One of the things we know that happens as we age is the fibroblast cells become a little bit sleepy. The theory is the light will stimulate them into action to produce collagen, which is something we need for thicker, plumper, less wrinkly skin.” But there’s no substantial evidence to back this up, he says. And if it does work, professional sessions are far more likely to be effective as they’re stronger than the at-home masks.
Mosahebi also warns there is limited research into using red light therapy as a repeated, long-term treatment – something manufacturers encourage with the masks. “We don’t know what happens when people use it in the long term. We don’t know if it actually causes more aged skin because light is the main cause of ageing, or whether it has any effect on skin cancer.”
Mosahebi says he believes red light therapy is safe, but that the best way to delay the onset of wrinkles is to make sure your diet is nutritious, drink enough water, exercise regularly, and wear a nourishing moisturiser and high protection sunscreen. If you’re not doing those things, it’s not worth shelling out for a mask.
