As the Orwell Lady cruised under a huge river bridge, I scanned for local celebrities – a pair of nesting peregrine falcons under one of the piers. No sign. They were probably having a lie in.
Beyond were bands of woodland, boats at anchor, oystercatchers on the wind, the odd pub on the shore and a six-storey Tudor folly. The skipper told stories of smugglers and pointed out where Admiral Vernon lived, famous for introducing the famous “grog” tipple to the Royal Navy.