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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
World
Helen Davidson and Chi Hui Lin in Kinmen

In the busy waters between China and Taiwan, the de facto border is being tested

An offshore island in Kinmen, an archipelago controlled by Taiwan but just a few kilometres from China.
An offshore island in Kinmen, an archipelago controlled by Taiwan but just a few kilometres from China. Photograph: Helen Davidson/The Guardian

Motoring across the calm waters of the South China Sea, Taiwanese captain Lu Wen-shiung recalls the old days, when Chinese and Taiwanese fishers used to meet behind rocky headlands, anchoring their boats out of the authorities’ sight, to share a meal. There was less surveillance then, and the two sides were more friendly, fishing the same waters, occasionally selling to each other on the sly.

“We were like brothers, we had a good relationship, they would even cook for us,” he says. “But … now the control has become more strict, the [Chinese] coast guard will call me if the boats are too close.”

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