As a child, I often wrinkled my nose at the humble cans of anchovies and salmon that my grandparents diligently stocked in their pantry, wondering why they would choose a cold chunk instead of a freshly baked fillet. But in recent years, tinned fish has undergone a facelift. The pungent anchovies people have avoided like the plague are now a coveted consumable.
While tinned fish has been around for ages, its popularity is a relatively recent phenomenon. Brands such as Fishwife, launched in 2020, have turned conservas into a status symbol, collaborating with chains such as Sweetgreen and celebrities such as gen Z musician Audrey Hobert. More unique offerings such as oysters and mackerel have entered the mainstream too.