Pity poor Douglas the camel, killed on a battlefield during America’s Civil War. The dromedary – a mascot for the Confederates – was shot by a Union sniper then apparently eaten by his starving comrades.
During the siege of Vicksburg, the two armies came so close they were sometimes in hand-to-hand combat. But at night the fighting ceased and brothers from opposing sides would exchange family letters before returning to fire at each other again the next day.
A 16-mile tour of memorials to the combatants on both sides, including visiting graves of the 17,000 soldiers buried there, was just one of the fascinating excursions during a week of sailing the Mississippi on American Queen, the largest steamboat ever built.
This is no ordinary cruise. The 400-passenger, six-deck vessel is very much a boat, not a ship.
You can climb down into the depths to see the mighty machinery (a four-cylinder, horizontally-inclined, tandem-piston, steeple-compounded, double-acting reciprocating steam engine, unless I’m mistaken) that drives the 28ft-diameter red wooden paddle wheel at the stern.
The steam is also used to power an organ called a calliope, played every time the boat leaves a port. One evening the repertoire blasted through the 37 gold-plated brass pipes surprisingly included the Rolling Stones hit (I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction.
On other decks are a gentlemen’s card room with stuffed animals (thankfully, no camel) and a ladies’ parlour with a tea set, though both genders now happily use both lounges.
A Mark Twain gallery is filled with artefacts, and – proving reports of his death have been greatly exaggerated – the author himself gives a monologue on the stage of the elegant theatre in the guise of actor Lewis Hankins.
Every night, diners have the choice of a high-ceilinged restaurant with white table cloths or the informality of a buffet on the “front porch” of the boat, complete with swinging chairs.
Afterwards there’s the chance to see a show or head to the Engine Room Bar to enjoy a band playing against the backdrop of the turning paddle wheel.
Boarding American Queen in New Orleans after an included hotel stay, we settled into our cabin, a cosy en-suite bedroom with ornate carved wood features, whose slatted front door opened on to a wide boardwalk.
Though built in 1995 and originally named with a giant bottle of Tabasco (later christened for its current owners by Priscilla Presley with champagne), the boat’s decor very much recreates the Victorian heyday of paddle steamers – a bit like a floating version of a traditional British pier.
There are even self-service popcorn machines and ice-cream makers on board, as well as a spa.
Among the many craft sailing the Mississippi, American Queen seemed the most appropriate way to visit plantation homes along the river, marvelling at their grandeur and their gardens while learning of the terrible lives of the slaves who served their pampered masters.
At one house, Rosedown, the owners have carefully preserved the steep and narrow service steps used by Black servants as well as the elaborate staircase set against expensive French wallpaper that greeted society guests.
Later, in Natchez, we visited the home of collector Ginger Hyland, who has amassed hoards of rare pens, ornaments and clothing – even Rhett Butler’s cigar case from Gone With The Wind.
She and husband James gave an entertaining tour before treating us to some Southern hospitality.
Other excursions on offer included a swamp ride to encounter local alligators, meeting inmates at the notorious Angola Prison, and kayaking on a lake. At most stops there was also a free hop-on, hop-off tour on the fleet of American Queen Voyages coaches that followed the boat along the river. The historic French Market is also worth a viit.
A riverlorian – that’s a river historian to you and me – gave talks and conducted tours from the pilot house, which on bigger ships would be called the captain’s bridge.
Also up on the top deck are the fitness centre, a small pool, and the towering smokestacks that can be hinged down on hydraulics to get under low bridges.
At night, entertainers and a band gave impressive performances in what’s called the Grand Saloon, resembling an old music hall.
Towards the end of the cruise, a day and a half of cruising allowed us time to relax and enjoy a bottle of wine sitting outside our cabin while watching the world go by.
Early risers were treated tosome radiant sunrises as we followed in the wake of the fictional Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn.
Most of the scenery along our route was of tree-lined banks with the occasional settlement, island or sandbank to break it up. Passing traffic consisted largely of tug boats pushing huge barges south.
Some of the all-American crew, including our delightful cabin stewardess Micka, and waiter Brad Collins went out of their way to make our day.
And after 640 miles winding alongthe sometimes tortuous bends of Mississippi – the same route by road is 400 miles – we arrived in Memphis.
With an average speed of 8mph, sailing on American Queen really is slow travel, though no one minded as we left the 21st century behind and relaxed on rocking chairs, pored over books or enjoyed a cocktail at the stern bar while the big wheel kept on turning, rolling on a river.
As we ended our voyage and I pondered the flight home and the return to normal life, I couldn’t help but agree with Mark Twain who said: “There is no unhappiness like the misery of sighting land (and work) again after a cheerful, careless voyage.”
Marvel at Memphis
- Graceland: A shuttle bus from a visitors’ centre takes you to see several rooms in Elvis’s home before returning to a complex housing his cars, planes and other memorabilia.
- The Beauty Shop: Eat lunch sitting under a hair dryer in the salon where Priscilla Presley used to be styled. Fitted out in classic Fifties fashion.
- The Arcade Restaurant: Now on its fourth generation of family owners, the city’s oldest restaurant - founded in 1919 - has been visited not only by Elvis but more recently by Orlando Bloom and Justin Timberlake.
- Sun Studio and Stax Museum of American Soul Music: Fascinating displays recall the timelines of blues, soul and rock’n’roll. At Sun Studio you can pose with the microphone Elvis used while Stax exhibits include Isaac Hayes’ Cadillac.
- National Civil Rights Museum: Sombre history of slavery, oppression and segregation in a museum based around the motel where Martin Luther King was assassinated on a balcony in 1968.
- Central BBQ: Pop over the road from the museum to taste the best pulled-pork buns.
- Beale Street: Music blasts out of the bars and clubs along this pedestrianised road.
- Hotel choice: Central Station Memphis, from around £147 a night. hilton.com
Ease into New Orleans
- Vue Orleans: View the Big Easy in style from the 34th floor of the Four Seasons hotel as part of a new interactive experience of the loud and colourful city.
- Streetcars: Ride the trolley buses that featured in A Streetcar Named Desire. The historic St Charles route takes you to the city’s verdant Garden District, with a chance to walk past splendid homes.
- Broussard’s: This restaurant in the heart of the French quarter has been serving dishes with an array of French and Creole influences for nearly a century. Musicians entertain at the tables and in the courtyard.
- Jazz Museum: Housed in the former Mint, this exhibition plays homage to the genre’s influential musicians.
- Sazerac House: Sample a different tasting on every floor in this building dedicated to the history of one of the city’s famous cocktails.
- Gianna’s: Discover an Italian twist on Louisiana favourites, such as crawfish arancini.
- National WWII Museum: This striking building recalls America’s role in the second world war through exhibits, multimedia experiences and personal accounts.
- Ruby Slipper: Worth joining the queue for brunch at this bustling Big Easy diner.
- Hotel choice: Hilton Riverside Hotel, from around £101 a night. hilton.com
Book the holiday
American Queen Voyages offers a seven-day Mississippi River cruise on American Queen from New Orleans to Memphis. Includes flights from/to Heathrow, meals, drinks, excursions, transfers, gratuities and a two-night pre-cruise B&B hotel stay. From £3,560 per person, departs on December 2. Find out more at aqvoyages.co.uk
Get more information at explorelouisiana.com, visitmississippi.org and tnvacation.com.
