As Australia's oldest wine region, the Hunter Valley is littered with families with long and distinguished roles in the nation's wine history.
Tyrrell, Tulloch, Wyndham, Drayton, Tinkler, McGuigan . . .
But there's a name that drips with Hunter history that flies under the radar: Eather.
This year, Garth and Rhys Eather, of Meerea Park Wines, celebrate 200 years since their ancestors arrived in the Hunter Valley. To be precise, it's 236 years in Australia, 200 as Hunter farmers and grape growers, and more recently 35 years of Pokolbin winemaking.
"It started with convict Thomas Samuel Heather who arrived on the Neptune as part of the Second Fleet on June 28, 1790," Garth Eather, Meerea Park's managing director, said.
"Over the generations the 'h' has been dropped from the name, but that's us."
It is somewhat of a miracle that Heather arrived in the first place. Convicted of highway robbery, he was sentenced to death in 1788.
Lucky break 1: His death sentence was commuted to 14 years imprisonment, held on board Britain's first prison ship, the Justitia, a 260-ton former transport ship moored in the River Thames.
Lucky break 2: In January 1790 it was decided he would be sent to Australia on the Second Fleet - later known as the "Death Fleet". Of the 1006 passengers, mostly convicts, 267 perished on the voyage.
Lucky break 3: "I understand that he and the ship's doctor became friends and he managed to get extra rations," Garth said.
The end result is that the Eathers are one of the first 2100 families to settle Australia.
"What are the chances of surviving a death sentence, then the Death Fleet, and to keep the family name, son after son, and remain in the Hunter over all that time?"
The Eather history is full of interesting anecdotes - like Sarah McAlpine for example, who in 1826 became the first white woman to cross the mountains from the Hawkesbury to the Hunter, riding a bullock while holding her young son in her lap.
Scottish immigrant Alexander Munro, former mayor of Singleton, and Hunter wine industry pioneer, was another family member.
These days, with Garth's brother, Rhys, as chief winemaker, Meerea Park's wines have never been stronger. Some of their aged semillons, in particular, have been dazzling.
"It has taken us 30 years to get where we are," Rhys said.
"To know our vines, source the finest fruit
"The best thing we did was take out long-term leases on the three vineyards we use - Casuarina, which I consider a grand cru vineyard for whites, Homestead and Lochleven.
"They're all really good vineyards.
"They might not produce the best wine every year, but they'll be up there somewhere."
For good wines and rich history, Meerea Park is a great place to start.
Meerea Park The Aunts Shiraz 2023
$45
From the Homestead vineyard, and an exceptional vintage, there's loads of enjoyment here. With all that savouriness so typical of Hunter shiraz, there's understated power here. It's all rather delicious. Dark cherry, a squeeze of blackberry, plums, licorice, slightly leathery, there's a lot happening, all finished off with perky acidity. It will age well, but I'd jump in now.
Ampersand Sauvignon Blanc 2024
$36
This is from cool climate Pemberton, about four hours south of Perth. It does this variety well, being a little cooler than Margaret River. Tropical fruit flavours of pineapple, passionfruit and lychee are balanced out by some crunchy, herbal notes and a rhubarb tartness. It's fresh and zesty, signing off with clean, zippy acid. Really fresh in the mouth, just as you'd want.
Yering Station Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2024
$135
Wow, this is Yarra Valley cabernet at its finest. Made only in the best vintages, this has an enticing nose of blackcurrant, red berries and sage. But the palate is where this shines ... elegance and refinement, super smooth but with oodles of length and depth. Red and dark fruits, then chocolate and spice, and finally herbs and vanilla. An absolute joy.
