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Los Angeles Times
Los Angeles Times
Business
Daniel Hernandez

How we got to peak avocado: Super Bowls to Mexico's drug cartels

Humans have been eating avocados on this continent for some 10,000 years or possibly longer, according to the archeological record. And we've been doing it more or less the same way the whole time, by mashing the tree's fruit into a pulpy paste known as guacamole.

It's that green, chunky mass, unusual for a fruit: somewhat savory, buttery in texture and high in monounsaturated fats. On occasion, you might find slices draped over a tostada or enchilada or omelet, but when mashed, it's all "guac." That includes iterations like being spread on artisanal toast with seeds and wispy greens (still weird but OK), lathered into the build of a turkey burger with Swiss cheese or served alongside chips and other salsas at watch parties for all-American sporting events like the Super Bowl.

The history of the annual NFL championship game as a cultural event is firmly entwined with the rise of guacamole in mainstream U.S. culture, according to Times columnist Gustavo Arellano, whose encyclopedic knowledge on all things American Mexican food is evident in his 2012 book, "Taco U.S.A."

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