While researching gherkins for a Food Filter column last year, I came across Kühne’s recipe for pickled cucumber ice-cream and couldn’t resist. Niche, I know, but I’ll bet there are a lot of gherkin fanatics out there who’d be willing to give it a go. If not, the cocktail I’ve used as inspiration might well suffice. The pickleback is made with pickle juice and a spirit such as whisky, tequila or, my favourite, vodka, and that same punchy, sweet-and-sour combination comes together to make possibly the quirkiest ice-cream flavour you ever come across. Delicious in a cone and topped with a gherkin, and out of this world when served with waffles, bacon and maple syrup.
Pickled cucumber and vodka ice-cream
This is one for the true gherkin fanatic, with a wild and funky flavour that tricks the mind with a rollercoaster of unexpected tastes. It’s sweet and dilly, but also tart and sour, with a lingering complexity from all the spices used to make the pickles. Fortified with a classic, creamy custard base, it’s best served with savoury waffles.
1 egg
70g sugar
100ml milk
250ml double cream
10g dill, finely chopped
10ml pickle juice
20ml vodka (or rum, tequila or whisky)
4 ice-cream cones, to serve
4 pickles, to serve
In a bowl, whisk the egg, sugar, milk and cream until well combined, then pour into a thick saucepan and cook, stirring continuously, over a very low heat until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. (Take care not to let it catch on the bottom, but, if it does, don’t fret: simply pour the custard through a fine sieve without scraping the bottom of the pan.) Take off the heat, stir in the dill and pickle juice, then stir in the vodka.
Blend smooth, then churn in an ice-cream machine or transfer to an airtight container and freeze for at least five hours, stirring every 30 minutes to break up any ice crystals. Serve at once, or, if serving the next day or thereafter, pop the ice-cream in the fridge for 30-45 minutes (or leave it out at room temperature for 15 minutes) to soften. Serve in cones and topped with a gherkin.
