I love big cities. Everything about a bustling metropolis appeals to me: its public transport, its local fruit and vegetable markets, and the absolute chaos that comes with a large number of people getting about their daily lives.
I could sit at a local café and people-watch for hours and wander aimlessly on the streets to get a tiny taste of local life. Plus, there is always something about a large city that reminds me of my hometown, Mumbai.
It’s just after midnight, and Cairo is on its best behaviour when I arrive. The streets are quiet, the roads free of traffic, a somewhat rare occurrence in a city of roughly 23 million people, making it the most populous in both Africa and the Middle East.
From my 16th-floor suite at the Four Seasons at Nile Plaza, I watch the twinkling lights on both sides of the Nile in absolute silence, knowing I will wake up seeing it in a completely different light.
At dawn, as the sun turns the city golden, I notice small traditional wooden boats ferrying passengers across the Nile from one bank to the other. It’s the dreamy postcard view of Cairo that we see in magazines. With only two days ahead, I am eager to make the most of my time and explore the wonders of the historic city with a thousand minarets.
What to do: Day 1
Located in Old Cairo, Saint Virgin Mary's Coptic Orthodox Church, also known as the Hanging Church, is one of Egypt’s oldest Coptic churches.
Built over the ruins of Old Cairo‘s Roman fort, the Hanging Church feels almost secretive at first, tucked within the historic quarter known as Coptic Cairo. But once you climb the stone steps leading upward, the noise of the city softens behind you.
It’s a hidden sanctuary with a remarkable collection of ancient Coptic icons lining the walls. Gold-leaf halos glow softly in candlelight. Some icons date back over a thousand years, their expressions serene and solemn. The iconostasis (the wooden screen separating the altar) is intricately carved with geometric and floral designs — a masterpiece of medieval craftsmanship.
From narrow alleys, make your way to the top of the city. Perched high above the city, the Citadel dominates Cairo’s skyline as a medieval fortress originally begun by Saladin in the 12th century to defend against Crusader invasions, later evolving into the seat of Egyptian rulers for centuries.
Within its stone walls rises the striking Mosque of Muhammad Ali, built in the 19th century by Muhammad Ali Pasha, whose grand Ottoman design, inspired by Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, features a vast central dome, cascading semi-domes, slender twin minarets, and luminous alabaster-clad interiors that glow in soft light. Outside, sweeping panoramic views over Cairo await from the citadel terraces.
Spend your evening strolling through Khan el-Khalili’s narrow stone lanes, buzzing with energy as shopkeepers call out friendly invitations, metalworkers hammer delicate patterns into brass, and the scents of spices, perfume oils, and roasted nuts drift through the air.
The bazaar is a treasure trove of souvenirs, selling hand-painted papyrus scrolls, alabaster statues, silver jewellery, vibrant scarves, handwoven carpets and leather goods. The traders are part of the experience itself - charismatic, humorous, and skilled in the art of bargaining.
Day 2: Giza
The Giza area of Cairo lies on the western bank of the Nile and blends modern city life with some of the world’s most iconic ancient monuments. The first sight of the Great Pyramid of Giza rising from the desert is overwhelming and spellbinding.
The golden sand stretches wide under an open sky, and as you walk closer, the limestone blocks tower above you, each massive stone revealing the sheer scale of ancient engineering. Near Pyramid of King Khufu stand the equally majestic Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Menkaure, forming the iconic trio that has defined Egypt for over 4,500 years. Venture inside the pyramids to explore narrow passageways leading to the burial chamber.
All around you, camels wait for riders, guides sharing stories of pharaohs, and the desert wind sweeping softly across the sand. A short walk downhill brings you face to face with the enigmatic Great Sphinx of Giza, its lion’s body and human face carved directly from limestone bedrock.
Get to the pyramids early, and you’ll be rewarded with a crowd-free experience, while evenings guarantee a golden hour view of the majestic site.
Not far from the last surviving wonder of the ancient world is the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), one of the largest archaeological museums in the world. Give yourself plenty of time to immerse yourself in the experience that’s truly monumental.
Its modern triangular design mirrors the geometry of the nearby pyramids, with a vast glass façade that frames views of the Great Pyramid of Giza. Construction began in 2002 and took over two decades to complete, involving a careful transfer of tens of thousands of ancient artefacts from across Egypt.
The museum’s greatest highlight is the complete collection of treasures from Tutankhamun — displayed together for the first time in history. Visitors can see his iconic golden funerary mask, gilded coffins, chariots, jewellery, ceremonial weapons, and even personal items such as sandals and furniture, all beautifully curated to tell the story of the boy king’s life and burial.
The scale of the galleries, the dramatic Grand Staircase lined with colossal statues, and the seamless blend of cutting-edge design with ancient history make the experience truly unique.
Where to stay
There are hotels located at historic sites throughout Cairo, including Tahrir Square and Giza, but the real heart of the city lies along the world’s longest river. By day, its waters are a hub of activity, and by night, the glittering lights showcase the real personality of the metropolis.
Located on the legendary Corniche, in close proximity to many landmarks, is the Four Seasons at Nile Plaza. Towering over 30 floors, it features 365 spacious guest rooms, including 100 suites, of which three are Royal and Presidential Suites accommodating up to seven adults.
Guests are greeted with grandeur from the outset: the large lobby features high ceilings, stunning marble flooring, comfortable sofas, and an abundance of floral decorations. The property houses three outdoor pools for adults and children, plus Cairo’s biggest spa, where you can soak yourself in a milk bath with honey, essential rose oil and rose petals, just like Cleopatra.
The rooms, facing the pool or the Nile, are spacious and flooded with light. A room-sized marble bathroom pampers you with a tub, a standalone shower, and a double-basin vanity unit.
As for the food, you’re spoilt for choice with 11 culinary experiences on offer here. There’s Byblos, the Lebanese and shisha bar, Egyptian, Chinese and Mediterranean restaurants, plus sushi. After a long day of sightseeing, we settled into a romantic riverside meal at Riviera, the Italian restaurant, which serves handmade pastas paired with fine wines, including some from Egypt.
From £320 per night, fourseasons.com/caironp
Where to eat
When in Cairo, one must try Koshary, a traditional Egyptian dish made with rice, macaroni, lentils, and chickpeas, topped with spicy sauce and crispy fried onions. While almost all restaurants in the city sell one, Koshary Abou Tarek, in the heart of downtown Cairo's hectic car mechanics district, have been dishing it out since the 1950s, first from a street cart to a multi-storey restaurant.
No matter where you go, you’re likely to smell the fragrance of charred meat glazed with spices like cumin, coriander and garlic. For a selection of kebabs and koftas, head to El Dahan.
Shawarma is another street food staple in Cairo, where slivers of thinly sliced meat are stuffed in a flatbread and topped with tomatoes, onions and tahini. El Tahrir near Tahrir Square is an unassuming place celebrated for its delectable shawarma.
In Giza, hidden away from the swanky terrace lounges and cafes with a view, is a traditional restaurant called El Dar Darak. The menu boasts a selection of freshly prepared Egyptian dishes, including set menus that start with soup and small plates of hummus, vegetables and vine leaves stuffed with rice, followed by mains, and dessert.
A touch of fine dining
There is nothing more romantic than devouring the cuisine of a country next to its most iconic landmark. Zitouni at Four Seasons Nile Plaza offers flavours of the land in an authentic setting next to the idyllic Nile. A buffet of hot and cold mezzes offers a choice from dolmas (stuffed vine leaves) to ful medames, an ancient Middle Eastern dish consisting of stewed fava beans, typically served for breakfast with olive oil, cumin, and various herbs and vegetables.
Entrees include the much-loved mulukhiyah, a leafy green soup or stew made from jute mallow leaves and served with rice and chicken. Signature dishes also include stuffed pigeons and fried lamb shank. Definitely save some space for Om Ali, a classic, creamy bread pudding.
Getting around
Taxis and ride-hailing services are the most popular mode of getting around Cairo. Be sure to carry cash, as most places still prefer it over cards.
