Asparagus butts are a particularly tricky byproduct to tame because they’re so fibrous. I usually cut them very finely (into 5mm-thick discs, or even thinner), then boil, puree and pass them through a sieve (as in my green goddess salad dressing and asparagus soup), but even then you’ll still end up with a fair bit of fibrous waste. Enter asparagus-butt butter: a recipe that defies all odds, making the impossible possible by transforming a tough offcut into an intense compound butter that’s perfect for grilling or frying asparagus spears themselves, or for eggs, bread, gnocchi or whatever you can think of. The short fibres brown and caramelise in the butter, and in the process become the highlight of the dish, rather than the problem.
Asparagus-butt butter
This transforms an unwanted byproduct into an intense expression of the plant’s flavour. Rich, gooey and powerful, this recipe defies all logic. It’s technically incorrect, not least because the strong plant fibres are still present rather than extracted by being passed through a sieve. But those fibres, if the asparagus ends are cut thinly enough (to avoid long, ropey fibres that are stronger than dental floss), caramelise in the pan and intensify the asparagus flavour. I like to serve the deliciously rustic butter with grilled asparagus spears, which I cook in a skillet; if you like, fry an egg in the same butter alongside the spears and serve on top of the asparagus.
1 bunch asparagus
Sea salt, to taste
Herb sprigs – parsley, coriander, thyme (optional)
Salted or plain butter, weighed to match the blanched sliced asparagus butts
1 garlic clove, peeled (optional)
Wash the asparagus, then lay the spears on a board with all the tips at one end. Very finely chop the thick ends of the stems into discs less than 5mm thick, working your way up the spears until you reach the tender parts (save the spears to use how you see fit).
Prepare an ice bath and bring a small pan of water to a rolling boil. Salt the water, then drop in the sliced asparagus butts and boil for 90-120 seconds; if you have any fresh herbs to hand (parsley, coriander, thyme), drop in a few sprigs for the last 10 seconds or so. Drain the asparagus mix, then plunge into the iced water to shock and refresh the veg.
Once the blanched sliced asparagus butts are cold, drain and transfer them to a clean towel, then press dry. Weigh the blanched asparagus and herbs (if using), then put in a food processor with the same weight of butter (or more if you need more asparagus butter) and the optional peeled clove of garlic. Pulse blend to a smooth, green puree, then finish by blending in a generous pinch of flaky sea salt to taste. Pack into a sealed container and keep in the fridge for up to two days (or freeze for up to three months).
