People always seem disappointed when I say my desert island dish is buttered toast with plenty of Marmite, but, for me, no elaborate dessert or spanking-fresh seafood even comes close in the pleasure department. Sadly, however, my editor wouldn’t let me devote several hundred words on the best way to make it, so, instead, here’s the recipe that I go for when I crave the same flavours, and can be bothered to make slightly more effort.