Fritto misto (the term for “mixed fry” sounds so much better in Italian, somehow) is, in the words of Katie Caldesi, “an assortment of deep-fried vegetables, fish or meats … all bite-size, intended to be eaten with fingers and a wedge of lemon”. And she should know, because she loves the stuff so much that she served fritto misto at her wedding to chef Giancarlo. It’s pure crisp, relaxed holiday pleasure – a simple crowdpleaser that everyone can dig into together, with, as Caldesi observes, a winning element of surprise: “You don’t know what is hidden beneath the batter until you’ve bitten into it.”
On that note, and because my memories of the dish involve rustling salty piles washed down with well-chilled carafes of vino della casa at seaside restaurants, I always think of the fishy version (properly fritto misto di mare), but I’ve given suggestions below for a vegetable alternative so everyone can enjoy the feast. After all, as the Tuscans say, fritta è buona anche una suola di scarpa (even the sole of a shoe tastes good fried).
