As the bright sun casts a warm golden hue, I arrive at Thatchankurichi, a quaint hamlet in Pudukottai district, all done up to open the season’s first jallikattu in Tamil Nadu.
Rows upon rows of majestic bulls line the village roads. The animals, adorned with colourful garlands, are their owners’ pride.
Karuppan from Mangadevanpatti village is happy, as his bull ‘Bullet’ has dodged many a daring tamer and won him a chair. The man, who tends to Bullet like his sibling, feeds it rice bran, corn, oil cake, coconuts and cotton seeds. The nutritious diet costs him ₹300 a day. “No one has tamed Bullet in the last two years. With the commencement of the season, I want to take him across the State to compete in more events,” he says.
The aroma of fried snacks wafts through the air, tantalizing the senses. Small food stalls offering a delectable array of traditional delicacies catch my sight. The sizzle of hot oil mingles with scents of crispy vadas, samosas, and piping hot bajjis, creating an irresistible invitation to indulge in the local culinary delights.
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Amidst such vibrant chaos, the village was buzzing with excitement. The loud speakers, the voices of young men hustling, and the occasional tinkling of bells tied to the bulls create a symphony of anticipation.
As vibrant fabric pennants flutter in the breeze, adding a festive touch to the village streets, the atmosphere is electric, filled with the palpable energy of participants. Enthusiastic spectators try to catch a glimpse from the terrace of houses around the arena; some even climb onto the barricades to view the sport.
As I squeeze into a spot at a makeshift stage, I spot a gaggle of young men inside the arena flexing their muscles and getting ready for the game. The bulls are queued up behind a trap door that opens onto the arena (vaadivasal) to release them one at a time. A dull-white bull with its menacing hump charges into the vaadivasal. Adrenaline spills over, within and beyond the arena. The jostling starts. The cheering deafens. Many men lunge for the hump of the bull, but only one seizes it. He holds on till the bull crosses the finish line. With the crowd cheering and whistling, the excited commentator screams: “Maadu pidi pattadhu! Maadu pidi pattadhu (The bull has been caught! The bull has been caught)!” He wins a steel cot. With head held high, he gears up to face the next raging bull.
The drill resumes. A black bull jumps out like a bolt of lightning. This time, it is too quick for the contenders as it breezes its way past. The owner, all smiles, follows it with a stainless-steel utensil the bull won for him.
As the sun reaches its zenith, marking the culmination of jallikattu for the day, a wave of satisfaction washes over the village. The participants, wear smiles on their faces, as they prepare themselves for the rest of the season.
