I arrive in Hermanus, a picturesque South African coastal village an hour-and-a-half from Cape Town, at about 11am on a sunny October morning. Ignoring the restaurants and art galleries on the main drag and the throngs of tourists watching southern right whales from the cliff path, I drive straight to the harbour to meet Els Vermeulen, the Belgium-born scientist who heads up the whale unit for the University of Pretoria’s Mammal Research Institute.
She is waiting for her colleagues to return from the last whale-tagging sortie of the 2024 season. “I would normally be out on the boat with the team,” says Vermeulen, who is dressed in a bold geometric print dress and a denim jacket. “But I had to drop my kids at school and couldn’t get down here early enough.” The water next to the concrete pier is so clear that I can see a giant orange starfish inching its way along the rocky seabed.
