The smell hits first, garlic and char on skewered meat, chiles brushed over buns, oyster sauce mingling with the syrupy edge of black vinegar on sizzling noodles. Then comes the sound, clams tossed in hot pans, cleavers pounding roast pork, a Cantonese rock ballad barely rising above the crowd. At Temple Street Night Market, steam rises, neon buzzes, just like the guidebooks promised.
My first bite of Hong Kong is a fried soup dumpling, filled with truffled pork and that holy trinity, garlic, ginger, scallion. Crisp-bottomed, soft-topped, doused in soy. I eat it standing, careful not to scald my tongue. It’s divine. It’s street food. A memory made to be eaten. But something’s different.
