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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Business
Katerina Liakos

Her grandpa brewed beer in his cellar in Iran. Last month she canned 30,000 brews that taste like home

A woman smiles as she packs cans of beer in a brewery as a man works beside her.
Zahra Tabatabai packs her New Day IPA for delivery, at the Flagship Brewery in Staten Island. Photograph: Tobias Everke/The Guardian

Business heats up for Zahra Tabatabai in March, the month of Nowruz, the 13-day Persian new year festival, which begins this year on 20 March. The Iranian American Brooklynite’s craft beers are infused with Middle Eastern flavors such as sumac and sour cherry, and packaged in design-forward cans featuring poetry in intricate Farsi lettering.

Tabatabai’s grandfather used to make his own beer with ingredients from his garden in Shiraz, before the Iranian government instituted a ban on alcohol consumption in 1979. More recently, her grandmother longed to taste her husband’s beer again, so Tabatabai set out to satisfy her yen. During the Covid-19 pandemic, while working as a freelance writer and overseeing the home schooling of her son, who is now 11, she started looking at recipes and enrolled in a home-brewing class, and began watching YouTube videos about the art of making beer.

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