The first look of a collection is a kind of setting out of a stall, and Sabato de Sarno put his love of the coat front and centre, opening his show in Milan on Friday with a simple but elegantly cut short coat, belted at the waist. No bells, very few whistles.
But, a personal fan of coats – he reportedly has more than 200 – the Gucci designer wasn’t going to let the coat only speak in whispers, and outerwear ranged from subtle to statement. Overcoats in black and camel were classic on top but salted with sparkle from the waist down; moss green and double-breasted or oversized and navy with subtly statement collars, if that isn’t a paradox. There were leather trenches, in sherbet yellow and pine green, of the kind Anna Wintour is frequently spotted in, pea coats and bombers.
