Walk past the discreet entrance gate of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria on Sorrento’s frantically busy Via Correale and you can easily miss it — as my guest and I did.
It is a very different story on the other side of the hotel. Its three buildings stand proudly, almost arrogantly, on top of a cliff overlooking the Bay of Naples above a huge name sign painted in white onto the crag. It is simply the most dominant feature of the town if you are arriving on one of the many ferries from Naples, Amalfi and Positano, or the islands of Capri or Ischia.
The Grand Hotel is a Sorrento institution that has this year marked its 190th anniversary, not so much grande dame as elegantly well preserved Contessa.
That in itself is cause for a major celebration — and believe me they did — but the fact that it has stayed in the same family hands for five generations all that time is nothing short of miraculous. In a world of every hotel changing brands, sub-brands, corporate M&A and private equity takeovers, the Fiorentinos have just got on with the job.
Current owner Guido, his wife, Ornella, and their two sons Luca and Peter can often be found around the site chatting to guests, including their many regulars.
The dynastic ownership means they can take a long-term view. The hotel once had a fourth building but it collapsed during the disastrous earthquake of 1980, which killed 3,000 people — though fortunately none in the hotel.
The site has stood empty since that traumatic day, apart from one section of portico that survived. The wheels of planning and local bureaucracy turn mighty slowly in southern Italy, but Guido hopes to have it rebuilt in time for the bicentenary in 2034. I wish him luck.
The missing fourth building is a reminder of the geological violence that comes with life in this part of the world — but also contributes to its staggering beauty.
Just stand on the hotel’s magnificent balcony and drink in the sweep from brooding Vesuvius to Ischia — as well as a classic Negroni from the Bar Vittoria of course.
What you are looking at is three dormant volcanos in a line. Sooner or later one of them — probably Vesuvius — will blow, for the first time since 1944. Vulcanologists say it is overdue. But as Guido shrugs, most people around here do not think about it, they just enjoy the lovely climate, the great food and drink and live for the day.
It is certainly hard to ponder on such troubling possibilities when staying at the hotel. There is pleasing old-fashioned vibe with staff in black jackets and bow ties. There is no corporate branding beyond Leading Hotels of the World, but there are reminders everywhere of the famous visitors who have passed through ranging from Princess Margaret and Enrico Caruso, to Sophia Loren, Luciano Pavarotti, as well as English Victorian and Edwardian gentlemen on the Grand Tour.
The three nineteenth century buildings that make up the hotel are connected by an elegant glass Art Nouveau-style winter gardens running along the front filled with antiques and frescos. There are chandeliers everywhere you look.
The bedrooms are eclectically furnished, no two the same, many with terraces, the superiors and doubles overlooking the Bay of Naples. In keeping with the retro feel there is no coffee machine, at least I could not find one.
The extensive five acres of gardens of orange groves, lemon and olive trees are only a few hundreds yards, but a world away, from the limoncello fulled tourist madness of the Piazza Tasso and its surrounding side streets. There is a large pool with a bar, called L’Orangerie naturally, in the heart of the gardens.
The spa, Boutique Spa La Serra, is in a greenhouse near the pool area offering treatments, ranging from facials to massages and manicures with products from Swiss skincare brand Valmont.
There are three restaurants, the Michelin starred Terrazza Bosquet providing sunset views of the bay run by executive chef Antonino Montefusco.
The two tasting menus are billed Sacred, a six-course sprint with a relatively modest price tag of Euros 150, or the ten-course marathon dubbed Profane, which starts with scallop, orange and sorrento walnuts, and ends, presumably several hours later, with white chocolate and green apple, although there is an option of a cheese trolley addition for the true gourmand. It comes in at a hefty Euros 195. For the food that is. A ten glass wine pairing option is a further Euros 160 on top. There is also a vegetarian alternative.
The others eating spots are Terrazza Vittoria, open for lunch only, and L’Orangerie. Breakfast is taken in perhaps the most spectacular space in the entire hotel, a heavily frescoed, barrel-ceilinged ballroom which also serves as a wedding venue.
Although the extensive grounds create an oasis of cosseted calm there is no shortage of side trips — if you can bothered. A wonderful private lift drops you down to sea level and the head spinning chaos of the numerous ferry jetties. Capri is the obvious destination choice, although it is now so popular much of the charm has gone. There is great walking all over the rightly celebrated Amalfi peninsula, and a trip to wonderful, mad Naples an hour away is also an option.
But, you know what, I found that the contrast between the quiet of the gardens, with their melon-sized lemons, and the noise and traffic of downtown Sorrento beyond the gates, took away a lot of my desire to explore. Just stand on that magnificent terrace and inhale that view. Who knows, one day Vesuvius may indeed wake up again and it will all be gone. In the meantime, as Guido says: enjoy.
The details
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria offers rooms starting from €637 per night on a B&B basis, based on two people sharing a garden view room, including Resort Tax and fees. exvitt.it
