Game season has a way of making itself sound more complicated than it is. There are feathers, fur, shooting calendars, unfamiliar cuts and the sense that unless you own a wax jacket and know someone with a Labrador, you are probably doing it wrong.
In the kitchen, though, game is far less forbidding. Venison, pheasant and rabbit are made for the sort of cooking autumn encourages: deep flavours, crisp pastry, mushrooms, dark sauces and the kind of dishes that make being indoors feel like a reasonable choice again.