Anyone who has tried andouille de Guémené knows it is not easily forgotten. Served in a crêpe with sautéed onions, the traditional Breton smoked pork sausage has a devoted following. When I told my French editor I was writing about it, she immediately exclaimed: “L’andouille de Guémené? J’adore!”
But her enthusiasm faded when I explained that the speciality from western France was caught in a regulatory dispute that could threaten its very existence.
