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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Joel Porter

Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi: minimalist hotel with one of the best restaurats in Asia

Where?

Four Seasons has two hotels very close by in Tokyo, so you’ll need to know your Marunouchi from your Otemachi, lest you end up in the wrong place.

The newer Four Seasons, in Otemachi, is slightly to the north of the original, in Marunouchi, which is the downtown heart of Tokyo, packed with big office buildings and throngs of suited salarymen. It’s not all business however – Marunouchi borders Ginza, Tokyo’s glitzy shopping district, as well as its famous and distinctly more scuzzy ‘yakitori’ alley, a packed row of bars by the railway tracks that fill the air with the intoxicating scent of grilled chicken come 5pm every night.

If you’re arriving by bullet train from another part of Japan, the hotel is conveniently located right next to Tokyo station – the Four Seasons team will even meet you on the platform and escort you to the hotel.

A hidden walkway that could easily be missed leads you from the busy street to the entrance (Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi)

Style

Compared to many other Four Seasons hotels around the world which occupy grand, flashy buildings (think of the London outpost in Trinity Square for instance), the Tokyo Marunouchi hotel is tucked away and understated, despite being located on the lower floors of a 31-storey glass tower. A hidden walkway that could easily be missed leads you from the busy street to the entrance, which comprises nothing more than a small ground floor reception with one check in desk and a couple of sofas.

It still manages to set the tone for the rest of the property, however, with high-ceilings, big windows, sleek wood panelling, calming pastel colours, and bright floral displays creating a minimalist yet luxurious feel. With only 57 rooms, it’s on the small side for a five-star property in Tokyo, which adds to the exclusive, boutique atmosphere.

Food & drink

The big ticket restaurant here is Sézanne, which opened in 2021 but already has two Michelin stars and recently placed at no. 2 on the Asia’s 50 Best list, making it the highest placed restaurant in Japan. Whatever you think of such accolades, it’s an impressively fast rise to stardom and even more intriguing for the fact that the kitchen is run by a British chef, Daniel Calvert, who’s previously worked at global big hitters such as Per Se in New York and Epicure in Paris.

The tasting menu at Sézanne blends classically rooted French cuisine with Japanese ingredients, and presents something genuinely fresh, original, and modern. Standout dishes include the firefly squid with almond sauce and breadcrumbs; the akkeshi sea oyster with koshihikari rice and wild sorrel; and “ris de veau" with pea shoots and preserved meyer lemon. It’s stellar stuff that’s well deserving of the hype.

A raised open kitchen at the back of the room is like a mini stage and adds theatre and personality to the room (Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi)

Celebrated designer Andre Fu created the interiors for Sézanne, which are in keeping with the rest of the hotel, bringing together luxurious natural materials like wood and marble with neutral colour palettes. A raised open kitchen at the back of the room is like a mini stage and adds theatre and personality to the room, while floor to ceiling windows let you glimpse out across Tokyo in all other directions (if you want to get even closer to the action, there’s also a chefs table literally in the kitchen).

Other than Sézanne, there’s also a champagne bar and more casual restaurant Maison Marunouchi, which is also overseen by Daniel, and has a more European bistro bent (there’s even a beef cheek wellington if you fancy). This is also where breakfast is served each morning, which brings both a buffet laden with pastries and fresh fruit, as well as a la carte options of eggs and French toast. Or go all in for the Japanese breakfast of fish, rice, and miso soup. Grab a window seat and you can peer right over Tokyo station, with the smooth white bullet trains gliding gracefully along the tracks.

The gym and spa (Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi)

Facilities

With its small size and strong F&B game, there’s not a huge number of extra facilities outside the restaurants and bars. There’s no swimming pool at the Marunouchi hotel but there is a gym and spa, complete with a traditional Japanese onsen bath which is a welcome and relaxing treat after a day walking the busy streets. Just be sure to book in advance.

Extracurricular

With the huge sprawl of Tokyo around you, the possibilities are endless. The subway will whisk you anywhere within the city but there’s plenty to explore on foot in the immediate area. Just to the west there’s the Imperial Palace and its lush gardens, one of the city’s top tourist attractions. The high-end shops and restaurants of Ginza are just to the south, where you can easily drop £400 a head on sushi if you wish – or take an early morning trip to the new Toyosu fish market and have a fresh sushi breakfast for a fraction of the prize.

Also well worth exploring is the Kabutocho neighbourhood, just to the north of the hotel, a small hipster enclave amongst the otherwise business-dominated district.

Floor-to-ceiling windows put relaxation and the city views at the forefront (Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi)

Which room?

There are 48 rooms and 9 suites to choose from, with the suites of course coming out top for space and comfort (and price). Entry level Deluxe King rooms are perfectly comfortable, however, and should be more than enough for most city visitors. Soft lighting, patterned carpets, an armchair, and a modern leather chaise longue positioned right by the floor-to-ceiling windows put relaxation and the city views at the forefront. Tech bells and whistles are all present and correct with USB chargers, international sockets, Nespresso machine and, more unusually, a 3D TV. Bathrooms feature a big tub in the centre of the room and L’Occitane products.

Best for….

Business travellers, couples, and families who want to fly under the radar, but still be right in the heart of the city.

Details

Doubles from £970. Book at fourseasons.com/tokyo

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